Onion Bed Maintenance: Weeding, Irrigation, and Bulb Development

🌱 The Soshanguve Growing System
This is Part 25 of the journey — from overgrown land to a self-sustaining organic food system.
Previous: Part 24 — Kale Growth Audit: Leaf Development and Secondary Compost Application  |  View All Posts
Next: Part 26 — Purple Onion Harvest: Curing and Storage

Real Grow #25 | Purple Onion Bed Update

The purple onion bed — 67 days after transplant. The plants are thriving, with thick tubular leaves and bulbs beginning to swell beneath the soil.

Kutlwano Mokoena
IT Professional | Systems-Driven Gardener | NPO Director

Building resilient food systems at Evergreen Hideout Agricultural Services (NPO Reg: 2024/380375/07).

August 14, 2026 • 12 min read • Soshanguve, Pretoria

"An onion is only as good as its start. Bury it wrong, and it will struggle forever. Plant it right, and it will feed you for months. The difference is 2 centimeters of depth and the discipline to check every root."

— Kutlwano Mokoena, Evergreen Hideout Log, Day 153

Purple Onion Growth Audit: Bulb Development and Mid-Season Tracking

The morning of August 14, 2026, was cool — the kind of morning that reminds you that winter is still clinging on, even though the calendar says spring is near. I walked out to the purple onion bed with a bucket and a trowel, ready for a mid-season check-in. The onions had been in the ground for 67 days, and it was time to see how they were doing.

I stood at the edge of the bed and looked at the plants. When I planted them as seedlings on June 8, they were small — barely 10cm tall, with just a few thin leaves. Now they were 30–40cm tall, with thick, tubular leaves and bulbs beginning to swell beneath the soil. The transformation was impressive.

Onions are a long game. They take months to mature, and they don't give you much feedback along the way. You plant them, you water them, you weed them — and you wait. But when the bulbs start to swell, you know the waiting is paying off.

In this post, I'll document the growth audit — the leaf development, the bulb formation, the weeding, and the irrigation. I'll also share the mistakes I've made with onions and the lessons I've learned along the way.

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1. The State of the Crop

I started by walking the length of the bed, looking at each plant. The first thing I noticed was the colour. The leaves were a deep, vibrant green — the hallmark of healthy, well-nourished onions.

I reached down and touched a leaf. It was thick and tubular — the characteristic of a healthy onion. It felt firm and crisp, not limp or wilted. That told me the plants were well-hydrated and taking up nutrients efficiently.

The stems were sturdy — about the thickness of a pencil. Thin, spindly stems would have been a sign of poor nutrition or stress. But these stems were strong, supporting the leaves without bending.

Here's the data I recorded:

• Days since transplant: 67 days (June 8 to August 14)
• Plants: 12 plants in a 2m² bed
• Average plant height: 30–40cm
• Average leaves per plant: 8–10
• Bulb diameter: 3–5cm
• Health rating: 9/10

I was particularly pleased with the bulb development. At 3–5cm diameter, the bulbs were on track for a good harvest. Each bulb was still growing, and I expected them to reach 5–8cm by the end of September.

The growth rate was consistent — about 2–3cm of new leaf length per week. That's exactly what I want to see in winter. In summer, it would be faster, but winter growth is steady and reliable.

🌱 Observation:

The onions have responded well to the feather compost and fish fertilizer. The leaves are a deep, healthy green, and the bulbs are swelling steadily. The slow-release nitrogen from the compost is providing steady nutrition without causing the rapid, weak growth that fast-release fertilizers can cause.

I also noticed something else — the mulch layer was still intact. The chicken feather compost I had applied back in June was about 6–8cm thick, slightly thinner than the original 8–10cm. It had settled and partially decomposed, which is normal. The soil underneath was dark, moist, and crumbly — exactly what I want to see.

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2. The Weeding Session

Before I could get to the weeding, I always do a quick inspection. I bend down and check the soil moisture, the weed density, and the root stability across the row. This audit ensures I can remove weeds cleanly without damaging nearby onion bulbs.

The soil was moist but not waterlogged — perfect for weeding. Weeding in dry soil breaks the roots, leaving fragments that regrow. Moist soil allows the weeds to slide out cleanly.

I started pulling weeds by hand. The soil was soft, and the weeds came out easily. I worked methodically, moving down the row and pulling each weed carefully, making sure to get the roots.

Instead of throwing the weeds away, I laid them on top of the bed. These weeds had absorbed nutrients from the chicken feathers compost while they were growing. By leaving them on the bed, I recycled those nutrients straight back into the soil.

I made a mistake earlier in the season. I let the weeds get too big before pulling them, and their roots had tangled with the onion roots. Pulling them damaged a few onion plants. Now I weed more frequently, while the weeds are small.

🌱 Field note:

Weeding is not just about removing competition — it's about timing. Weed when the soil is moist, and the roots slide out cleanly. Weed frequently, and the weeds stay small. And always leave the pulled weeds on the bed — they're a source of free nutrients.

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3. Post-Weeding Irrigation

After weeding, I always water the bed. Hand-weeding disturbs the soil and creates air pockets around the onion roots. Irrigating immediately after weeding closes those air pockets, settles the soil, and provides hydration to reduce root shock.

I watered with about 1–2 liters per plant, using a gentle spray from a hose nozzle. The water was room temperature — I'd let it sit in the sun for a few hours before using it. Cold water (10–12°C) shocks the roots.

I made sure the water reached the root zone, not just the surface. The roots were about 10–15cm deep at this point, so I watered deeply.

Watering after weeding is one of those small steps that makes a big difference. It doesn't take long, but it protects the roots and keeps the plants healthy.

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4. Mistakes I've Made

I've made plenty of mistakes with onions. Here are the ones I want to share:

Mistake #1: I planted them too shallow.

The first time I planted onions, I didn't bury them deep enough. The bulbs pushed above the soil, turned green, and became tough and woody. Now I plant them at the correct depth — the crown level with the soil surface.

Mistake #2: I didn't feed them enough.

Onions are heavy feeders. I thought one compost application would be enough. The bulbs were small at harvest. Now I apply compost regularly and use fish fertilizer every 14 days.

Mistake #3: I overwatered.

Onions don't like wet feet. I watered too frequently, and the roots rotted. Now I water deeply but less often, checking the soil moisture before each watering.

Mistake #4: I didn't weed early enough.

The weeds got big, and their roots tangled with the onion roots. Pulling them damaged the onions. Now I weed early and often.

Mistake #5: I harvested too early.

I was impatient. I pulled the onions before the leaves had died back, and the bulbs were small. Now I wait until the leaves yellow and fall over before harvesting.

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5. What to Expect

The onions are on track for a good harvest. Here's what I expect over the coming weeks:

August 14–31: Bulb expansion continues — bulbs reach 4–6cm diameter.

September 1–15: Bulbs reach full size (5–8cm diameter).

September 16–30: Leaves begin to yellow and die back — the harvest window opens.

October 1–15: Harvest and curing.

I've been through this cycle before, and I know what to expect. Onions test your patience, but they reward you in the end.

🌱 Evergreen Field Notes — Part 25

• Location: Soshanguve, Pretoria, South Africa
• Current phase: Purple Onion — Mid-Season Growth Audit
• Variety: Purple onion ('Red Creole' or similar)
• Transplant date: June 8, 2026
• Days since transplant: 67 days
• Plants: 12
• Average height: 30–40cm
• Average leaves per plant: 8–10
• Bulb diameter: 3–5cm
• Weeding status: Weeded
• Irrigation: Post-weeding irrigation applied
• Pest status: Clean — no onion flies, no thrips, no disease
• Feather compost: Intact (6–8cm layer)
• Health rating: 9/10
• Expected harvest: Late September to October 2026
• Next phase: Onion harvest and curing

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Integration with the Series

• Post #14 (Purple Onion Planting): The original planting of our purple onions on June 8.
• Post #5 (Mulch Firewall): The mulch layer that is protecting our onions.
• Post #9 (Weed Management): Weeding protocol that keeps the onion beds clean.
• Post #10 (Fish Fertilizer): Liquid feeding protocol that supplements the feather compost.
• Post #13 (Feather Compost): The top-dressing that provided slow-release nutrition.
• Post #22 (Beetroot Planting): Planting beetroot seedlings.
• Post #23 (Beetroot Update): Mid-season growth audit.
• Post #24 (Kale Update): Mid-season growth audit and secondary compost application.
• Post #25 (This post — Purple Onion Update): Mid-season growth audit and maintenance.
• Post #26 (Upcoming — Purple Onion Harvest): We will provide a harvest update on our purple onion crop.

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What's Next?

Now that the onions have been weeded and irrigated, I'll continue monitoring bulb development over the coming weeks. The next major milestone will be the first harvest.

In Post #26 (Purple Onion Harvest: Curing and Storage), I'll cover:

• Harvest readiness: When to pull the trigger — signs that onions are ready for harvest.
• Harvest technique: How to pull onions without damaging the bulbs.
• Yield tracking: How many bulbs per plant, total weight, and marketable size.
• Curing process: How to dry and cure onions for long-term storage.
• Storage conditions: How to store onions for months of use.

Purple onions are a cornerstone crop for any kitchen garden — they store well, they are versatile in cooking, and they are expensive to buy at the store. By tracking their progress, I can ensure a successful harvest.

Stay tuned for the next update from Soshanguve. Keep your hands in the soil and your logs updated.

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6. Final Thoughts

Standing in the garden after the onion audit, I looked at the bed. The plants were healthy, the leaves were green, and the bulbs were swelling. The crop was on track.

I thought about the journey. The onions had gone from a seedling to a bulbing plant in 67 days. They would keep growing for another month or two. But that was the nature of onions — they rewarded patience.

The garden was healthy. The soil was alive. And the food was on its way.

— Kutlwano

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Continue the Real Grow Series:

← Part 1: Site Diagnostic & Why It Matters
← Part 2: Land Clearing & The Pick-Mattock
← Part 3: Soil Turning & Root Extraction
← Part 4: Soil Architecture & Permanent Beds
← Part 5: The Soil Firewall — Mulching Before Planting
← Part 6: The Software Upload — Planting Garlic
← Part 7: The Staging Environment — Planting Swiss Chard
← Part 8: The Middleware — Planting Spring Onions
← Part 9: Resource Protection — Manual Weed Management
← Part 10: The Nitrogen Boost — Applying Fish Fertilizer
← Part 11: Weeds to Wealth — Building a Compost Heap
← Part 12: Compost Hacking — Sourcing Chicken Feathers
← Part 13: Soil Armor — Top Dressing with Chicken Manure
← Part 14: From Seedling to Soil Armor — Planting Onions
← Part 15: Growing Diva — Planting Cauliflower Seedlings
← Part 16: Perennial Shoots — Propagating Kale from Cuttings
← Part 17: Swiss Chard Update — Mid-Season Growth Audit
← Part 18: Garlic Development — Mid-Winter Growth Audit
← Part 19: Leek Seedling Mastery — Propagating and Transplanting Leeks
← Part 20: Spring Onion Harvest — Cut and Come Again
← Part 21: Cauliflower Scouting — Pest Management and Growth Audit
← Part 22: Beetroot 101 — How to Transplant for Success
← Part 23: Beetroot Growth Audit — Leaf Development and Bulb Formation
← Part 24: Kale Growth Audit — Leaf Development and Secondary Compost Application
Part 25: Purple Onion Growth Audit — Bulb Development and Mid-Season Tracking →
📚 View All Posts in the Series

🌱 The Soshanguve Growing System

Intro ✅ Clearing ✅ Soil Turning ✅ Soil Architecture ✅ Mulch Firewall ✅ Planting ✅ Growing ✅ Harvest ✅ Weed Management ✅ Feeding ✅ Compost ✅ Chicken Feathers ✅ Soil Armor ✅ Onion Seedlings ✅ Cauliflower ✅ Kale Propagation ✅ Swiss Chard Update ✅ Garlic Update ✅ Leek Seedlings ✅ Spring Onion Update ✅ Cauliflower Update ✅ Beetroot ✅ Beetroot Growth ✅ Kale Growth ✅ Purple Onion Growth ✅ Kale Harvest

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Evergreen Hideout Agricultural Services
📍 Soshanguve, Pretoria, South Africa
🌱 Building food security through biological engineering.

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