Kale is a nutritious green vegetable that can be easily propagated from its side branches, making it a great choice for gardeners. To do this, look for healthy side shoots that grow off the main stem of the kale plant. You can cut these shoots, ensuring they have at least a few leaves and some stem. Next, place them in a glass of water for a few days to help encourage root growth. Once you see roots forming, transfer the shoots into small pots with potting soil. Water them well and keep them in a sunny spot. In a few weeks, your newly propagated kale plants will grow strong, allowing you to enjoy fresh greens straight from your garden! This method not only extends your kale harvest but also helps in reducing waste by giving new life to side branches.
Permaculturist | IT Specialist | Soil Systems Architect
Applying system engineering to organic soil biology at Evergreen Hideout Agricultural Services.
June 18, 2026 • 20 min read • Soshanguve, Pretoria"A kale cutting is not just a branch — it is a clone, a copy, a continuation. Plant it right, and it will grow into the same plant you harvested from. That is not gardening. That is biological replication."
Propagating Capital: Sinking Fresh Kale Shoots Directly into Heavily Mulched Beds
Propagating kale from mature side shoots offers a resilient, cost-effective shortcut to expanding your cool-season greens collection. Instead of awaiting seed germination cycles or nursing delicate baby plugs, utilizing hardened vegetative cuttings allows us to transition vigorous parent clones straight into production. In this field log, we document our exact, step-by-step planting methodology across a thick, biologically active mulched bed. By mapping every unique piece of field media chronologically, we maintain structural integrity and robust E-E-A-T reporting value from start to finish.
Why Kale? Variety Selection and Propagation Advantages
Before we get into the planting steps, let us establish why we chose kale for vegetative propagation and why June is the right time in Soshanguve:
- Variety: Curly Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica) or Lacinato (Dinosaur) Kale. Both are cold-hardy and thrive in Soshanguve's winter conditions (10–22°C days, 2–10°C nights). Kale actually improves in flavor after a light frost — the cold triggers sugar production in the leaves.
- Why propagate from cuttings instead of seeds? Cuttings bypass the germination phase (7–10 days) and the seedling phase (4–6 weeks), giving us mature, harvestable plants in 4–6 weeks instead of 8–10 weeks. Cuttings also produce genetic clones of the parent plant — if the parent is high-yielding, pest-resistant, or particularly tasty, all offspring will share those traits.
- Winter planting window in Soshanguve: Kale can be planted from March through August. Our June 18 planting date is well within the window. Kale grows slowly in winter but produces continuously for 6–8 months when harvested correctly (outer leaves only).
- Zero-cost propagation: The cuttings come from pruning existing kale plants. Instead of discarding the pruned branches, we root them and create new plants. One mature kale plant can produce 10–20 viable cuttings per season.
Step 1: Auditing Kale Shoot Quality and Stock Volume
The success of direct shoot propagation depends entirely on selecting strong, thick-stemmed material. Before digging our planting pockets, we conduct a close visual audit of our harvested stock. A clear view of the lower stems shows the robust, woody nodes where new root networks will develop once buried. Having a substantial pile of these healthy cuttings on hand allows us to gauge our total bed layout and verify that we have enough stock to fill the entire length of the row at an optimal intensive grid spacing.
Kale cutting selection — what makes a good cutting:
- Length: 10–15cm (4–6 inches). Too short (under 8cm) and the cutting lacks enough stored energy to root. Too long (over 20cm) and the cutting loses too much water through transpiration before roots form.
- Stem thickness: Pencil thickness or slightly thicker (5–8mm diameter). Thin stems (under 4mm) are weak and often fail to root. Thick stems (over 1cm) are too woody and root slowly.
- Leaf count: 4–6 leaves. Fewer than 4 leaves means the cutting lacks photosynthetic capacity. More than 6 leaves means too much water loss (remove lower leaves).
- Stem maturity: Slightly woody (brownish-green), not too soft (green and succulent) and not too hard (brown and bark-like). The ideal cutting bends without snapping.
- Node presence: The cutting should have at least 2–3 nodes (the bumps where leaves emerge). Roots will emerge from these nodes when buried.
- No pests or disease: Check for aphids (especially on the undersides of leaves), powdery mildew (white spots), or leaf miners (tunnels in leaves).
- Healthy parent plant: Cuttings should only be taken from healthy, vigorous, disease-free parent plants.
Our batch assessment: Length 12–15cm, stem thickness 6–8mm, leaves 5–6 per cutting, slightly woody stems, good node presence, no pests or disease, parent plants healthy — all excellent. Ready for planting.
Cutting preparation — the 45-degree cut:
- Before planting, we recut the bottom of each stem at a 45-degree angle using clean, sharp scissors or a knife.
- The angled cut increases the surface area for water uptake and root formation.
- Make the cut just below a node (the bump where a leaf was attached). Nodes are where roots will emerge.
- Dip the cut end in water immediately after cutting to prevent air from entering the stem's vascular system (air bubbles block water uptake).
Removing lower leaves:
- Strip the bottom 2–3 leaves from each cutting, leaving only the top 2–3 leaves.
- This reduces water loss through transpiration (cuttings have no roots to take up water, so they lose moisture through leaves).
- Removing lower leaves also prevents rot when the stem is buried in moist soil.
- Do not remove all leaves — the cutting needs some leaves for photosynthesis to fuel root growth.
Step 2: Cleaving the Mulch and Setting the Cuttings
With our total stock volume calculated, we execute the physical placement in the ground. In the video sequence, you can watch the exact technique used to separate the thick layer of dry maize stalks and organic mulch material to expose the native soil below. Each kale shoot is held firmly and inserted deeply into the rich ground substrate. This ensures that the bare nodes are completely covered by dirt, anchor properly against movement, and tap directly into underground moisture reserves.
Planting depth — the node burial rule:
- Bury the cutting so that 2–3 nodes are below the soil surface.
- This means planting the cutting approximately 5–8cm deep (the nodes are usually spaced 2–3cm apart on the stem).
- The top 2–3 leaves should remain above the soil surface (not buried).
- Burying more nodes increases the chance of root formation. Burying fewer nodes reduces rooting success.
- Do not bury the leaves — buried leaves rot and invite disease.
Spacing calculations — kale needs room to expand:
- Plant-to-plant spacing: 30–45cm. Kale produces large leaves (30–60cm wide at maturity). Overcrowding causes smaller leaves and increased disease (powdery mildew).
- Row-to-row spacing: 45–60cm. This gives the plants room to expand and allows space for harvesting.
- Plants per square meter: 5–8 kale plants per square meter (compared to 33 onions per square meter).
- Our spacing: 40cm between plants, 50cm between rows. This is intensive but allows airflow.
Planting technique — how to set the cutting:
- Create a hole using a dibber or your finger (5–8cm deep).
- Insert the cutting so the bottom node is at the bottom of the hole.
- Hold the cutting upright while backfilling the hole with soil.
- Firm the soil gently around the stem — do not press hard (kale stems are more delicate than cauliflower stems).
- Test: Gently tug on the cutting. It should not lift out of the ground.
Step 3: Firming the Base Within the Organic Mulch Matrix
Once a cutting is lowered into its spot, the soil must be firmed directly around its base. Getting low to the ground allows us to manually press out large air spaces from the immediate root zone, which would otherwise dry out the unrooted stems. After securing the base soil, the thick surrounding mulch layer is carefully tucked back around the collar of the shoot. This protective ring of dry organic material prevents solar heat from baking the exposed soil and preserves the damp environment needed for root initiation.
Firming technique — how much pressure to apply:
- Use your fingers (not your whole hand) to press soil gently around each stem.
- Press just firmly enough to close the hole and eliminate air pockets — not so firmly that you compact the soil.
- Kale stems are more delicate than cauliflower stems. Over-compaction can crush the stem's vascular tissue.
- Test: Gently tug on a leaf. The cutting should not lift out.
Mulch management after planting:
- After firming the soil, pull the mulch layer (from Post #5) back around the stem, leaving a 2–3cm clear zone (the "donut hole").
- Do not pile mulch directly against the stem — this causes rot and invites pests (slugs, cutworms).
- The mulch layer should be 5–8cm thick, tapering to 2cm near the stem.
- If the mulch is dry, water it lightly to settle it around the stem.
Step 4: Deep Hydro-Saturating across the Mulch Layers
Because these cuttings do not possess an established root system yet, immediate hydraulic connection is non-negotiable. We follow the physical anchoring step with an intensive, high-volume water drench across the entire mulched bed profile. A steady stream is sprayed directly over the line of newly set shoots. This deep drench completely saturates the mulch layers, washes loose soil particles tightly against the naked stems, and triggers the cellular signals needed for rapid root development.
Post-planting watering protocol — the initialization sequence:
- Water immediately after planting. Do not wait. Cuttings have no roots and will dry out within hours.
- Water volume: 2–3 liters per cutting (more than onions or cauliflower because cuttings have no roots to take up water).
- Water temperature: Room temperature (18–22°C). Cold tap water (10–12°C in winter) shocks cuttings.
- Application method: Gentle stream at the base of each cutting. Do not water the leaves — wet leaves encourage mildew.
- Water quality: If using municipal tap water, let it sit for 24 hours to off-gas chlorine.
- Subsequent watering: Keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy) for the first 14 days. Water every 2–3 days if no rain. After roots form (14–21 days), reduce watering to once per week.
Why cuttings need more water than seedlings:
- Seedlings have roots that take up water. Cuttings have no roots — they rely entirely on moisture in the soil surrounding the stem.
- The buried nodes absorb water through the stem tissue until roots form.
- If the soil around the cutting dries out, the cutting will wilt and die within 24–48 hours.
- Consistent moisture is the single most important factor for cutting survival.
Step 5: Inspecting the Final Settled Shoot Posture
Our planting run concludes with an individual posture inspection of our settled shoots. Zooming in on a single completed kale cutting shows the plant standing perfectly straight, completely turgid, and comfortably framed by coarse organic mulch. The leaves should remain crisp and upright immediately following the watering cycle. This correct posture indicates that the stem has been firmly packed in and is already drawing moisture up through its fresh vascular pathways to resist transplant shock.
Post-planting audit checklist (24–48 hours after planting):
- Standing straight: All cuttings should be upright. If any have flopped, the soil was not firmed enough or the hole was too deep. Replant immediately.
- Leaves turgid: Leaves should be firm, not wilted. Some wilting is normal for the first few hours, but by 24 hours, leaves should be turgid. If still wilted, water again (1–2 liters per cutting).
- No exposed stem: If the stem is visible above the soil, press more soil around the base.
- Mulch position: Mulch should not be touching stems. Pull back any mulch that has shifted.
- Spacing: Confirm spacing is consistent (40cm between plants).
Expected timeline for rooting:
- Days 1-3: Cuttings may look slightly stressed (wilting). Do not overwater. Stem is absorbing moisture from the soil.
- Days 4-7: New root initials should be visible if you gently lift a cutting (small white bumps at the buried nodes).
- Days 7-10: Leaves should be fully turgid. New growth may appear at the top of the cutting.
- Days 10-14: Roots should be 2–5cm long. The cutting is now established.
- Days 14-21: Active leaf growth begins. Apply a light liquid feed (diluted worm tea, 1:15) at day 14.
Why This Propagation Method Works
- Accelerated Maturity Timelines: Bypassing the seedling phase cuts weeks off our operational calendar, giving us robust, leaf-producing plants much faster. Seed-grown kale takes 8–10 weeks to reach harvest size; cutting-propagated kale takes 4–6 weeks.
- High Climate Adaptability: Hardened side shoots taken from established local parent stock carry a high tolerance for our current regional winter weather conditions. They are already acclimated to Soshanguve's temperature swings (10–22°C days, 2–10°C nights).
- Excellent Moisture Preservation: Embedding these deep cuttings inside an established thick mulch layer (Post #5) shields the developing root initials from extreme evaporation. The mulch keeps the soil moist for days, reducing watering frequency.
- Genetic Uniformity: All cuttings are clones of the parent plant. If the parent is high-yielding, pest-resistant, or particularly tasty, all offspring will share those traits. This is impossible with seeds (which produce genetic variation).
- Zero-Cost Multiplication: The cuttings come from pruning existing kale plants. Instead of discarding the pruned branches, we root them and create new plants. One mature kale plant can produce 10–20 viable cuttings per season.
- Disease Resistance: Cuttings taken from healthy parent plants are less likely to carry soil-borne diseases than seed-grown plants (which are susceptible to damping-off in the seedling stage).
Integration with the Series
- Post #1 (Solarization) & Post #2 (Initial Clearing): Cleared the land for our beds.
- Post #4 (Soil Architecture): Built the raised beds and amended the soil.
- Post #5 (Mulch Firewall): Established the mulch layer that protects our cuttings.
- Post #6 (Garlic), Post #7 (Chard), Post #8 (Spring Onions): Established our first crops.
- Post #11 (Compost Pile) & Post #12 (Feathers): Created the compost that top-dressed the beds.
- Post #13 (Applying Compost): Top-dressed the beds with feather compost.
- Post #14 (Onions): Planted purple onion seedlings.
- Post #15 (Cauliflower): Planted cauliflower seedlings.
- Post #16 (This post — Kale Propagation): Planted kale cuttings into the compost-amended beds.
- Post #17 (Upcoming — Swiss Chard Update): We will provide an update on the growth of our Swiss chard spinach.
Failure Mode Analysis: Kale Cutting Propagation Edition
Failure 1: Cuttings wilt and die within 48 hours. Cause: Not enough water, or the cutting lost too much moisture through leaves. Recovery: None — dead cuttings cannot recover. Prevention: Water immediately after planting (2–3 liters per cutting). Remove lower leaves to reduce water loss. Keep cuttings in a shaded area for the first 3 days.
Failure 2: Cuttings rot at the base (stem turns brown and mushy). Cause: Too much water (waterlogged soil) or mulch piled against the stem. Recovery: Remove rotted cuttings — they will not recover. Prevention: Ensure soil drains well (raised beds from Post #4). Do not pile mulch against stems. Water only when the top 2cm of soil is dry.
Failure 3: Cuttings fail to root (no root growth after 14 days). Cause: Cutting was too woody (too old) or too soft (too young). Temperature too cold (below 10°C). Recovery: Pull the cutting and check for root initials. If none, discard and replant with fresh cuttings. Prevention: Select cuttings from the middle of the parent plant (not the oldest or youngest branches). Ensure soil temperature is above 10°C.
Failure 4: Leaves turn yellow (nutrient deficiency). Cause: Nitrogen deficiency (yellow lower leaves). Recovery: Apply diluted fish fertilizer (1:20) as a soil drench. Prevention: Ensure compost layer is at least 3–4cm deep. Kale is a heavy feeder — side-dress with compost at week 4 after transplant.
Failure 5: Aphids attack the new growth. Cause: Aphids are attracted to tender new growth. They are common in Soshanguve gardens. Recovery: Spray with soapy water (1 teaspoon castile soap per liter of water) every 3 days until aphids are gone. Prevention: Plant onions or garlic nearby (Post #6, #8, #14) — alliums repel aphids.
Seasonal Timing: Why June 18 Works for Kale Cuttings
In Soshanguve, kale can be planted from March through August. Our June 18 planting date is well within the window. Here is the analysis:
- Advantage: Kale grows slowly in winter but produces continuously for 6–8 months when harvested correctly (outer leaves only). Cuttings root best in cool weather (15–22°C) — Soshanguve's June temperatures are ideal.
- Risk: Cuttings may root more slowly in colder soil (10–15°C at 10cm depth). Rooting may take 14–21 days instead of 10–14 days.
- Mitigation: Our compost layer (Post #13) insulates the soil, keeping it 2–3°C warmer than bare soil. This speeds rooting.
- Expected first harvest: Late July to August 2026 (4–6 weeks from planting).
- Continuous harvest: We will harvest outer leaves every 2–3 weeks, allowing the plant to continue producing for 6–8 months.
What's Next?
Now that our vegetative kale shoots are securely anchored and thoroughly drenched, our daily management schedule turns to monitoring stem stability over the next ten days. But while we wait for roots to form on our kale cuttings, we have another important task.
The upcoming post will be about an update on the growth of our Swiss chard spinach.
Back in Post #7, we planted Swiss chard (often called "spinach" in South Africa) into our mulched beds. It has now been approximately 6 weeks since transplant (April 27 to June 18). The chard has established itself, and it is time to provide a full growth update — including how it has responded to the fish fertilizer (Post #10), the feather compost top-dressing (Post #13), and the winter conditions in Soshanguve.
The next post will cover:
- Growth metrics: Current leaf size, plant height, and overall health compared to the transplant date. We will measure leaf length, width, and count per plant to track progress.
- Harvest update: We have been harvesting outer leaves on a cut-and-come-again basis. How many harvests have we taken? How much total weight per square meter?
- Response to fish fertilizer (Post #10): Chard is a heavy feeder. We have been applying fish fertilizer every 14 days. How has the chard responded? Are the leaves darker green? Is growth faster?
- Response to feather compost top-dressing (Post #13): We applied feather compost to the chard beds on June 5. Has there been a visible growth response in the 13 days since?
- Winter performance: Chard is a cold-hardy crop. How is it handling Soshanguve's winter temperatures (10–22°C days, 2–10°C nights)? Have we seen any frost damage?
- Pest and disease check: Have we seen any aphids, leaf miners, or powdery mildew on the chard? How are we managing them?
- Comparison to spring-planted chard (if we have previous data): How does winter-planted chard compare to chard planted in other seasons?
- Future plans for the chard beds: When will we plant the next succession? Will we continue harvesting the existing plants or replace them with a new crop?
- Lessons learned: What would we do differently next time? What worked well?
This Swiss chard update will serve as a benchmark for our entire system — it will show us whether our soil-building efforts (Posts #1–#13) are translating into actual food production. If the chard is thriving, we know our system works. If not, we will adjust.
Stay tuned for the next update from Soshanguve. Keep your hands in the soil and your logs updated.
If you are just joining the Real Grow series, catch up here:
Post #2: The Tool Logic – Land Clearing & Pick-Mattock Technique
Post #3: Below the Surface: The Masterclass on Soil Turning and Root Extraction
— Kutlwano
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